![]() I learned that a bad sensor could cause the no communication error with the scanner. I will measure actual voltage at pins 4 and 5 and get back to you on the readings.Īs I mentioned in a previously, I tested the 5v reference circuit at the MAP sensor, but based on the wiring diagram there seem to be 3 different 5v circuits (they may be internally connected) so I will have to test the other 2 circuits to see if they are alive. The test light lit up, which means there is good ground at those pins. As far as testing pins 4 and 5, I connected a test light to the positive battery post and probed each of pins 4 and 5. As far as testing pin 16, I used a metal bracket under the dash as my ground, and I measured 12 volts at pin 16. I tested pins 4 and 5 before you replied, so I didn't use the method you mentioned. Pin 3 is the ground that the engine control unit activates the relay2.Ģ.OBD port is not related to the relay2,check the fuse 8 (15A) which supply voltage to DLC, and relay 1.ģ.yes for just testing purpose you can jump a wire between pin 1 and 2 fuel pump must be activated.Ĥ.check the full engine wiring diagrams below which are 5 pages, each page i cutted to 3 sections for clear reading. Pin 2 is the positive voltage that activates the fuel pump. Please can you tell me in details what's the problem? engine does not start, you don't have fuel, but did you check if the spark present?.ġ.no main relay 2 (fuel pump relay ) just triggers the fuel pump refer to wiring diagram, fuse 19 (15A)under hood supplies positive to relay 2 pin1 and the immobilizer control unit.Ĭheck the main relay 1 which triggers the main relay 2 at pin 4.Ĭheck for positive at relay pin 1 you must get 12v from fuse 19(15A).Ĭheck pin 4 you must get 12v ignition on. Is it possible that all the fuel pump relays I tested were defective (very unlikely or extremely bad luck) OR is the fuel pump relay supposed to be tested differently from all other 4-pin relays? And if so, please tell me how to test the fuel pump relay. I tested about 6 different fuel pump relays that I got from the junkyard (All were Mitsuba relays, which were known to fail) and they all caused a spark instead of clicked. However, when I tried to test the Fuel Pump relay (which is also a 4-pin relay), as soon as power and ground were connected to pins 3 and 4, instead of hearing the relay click, I got a spark/arc and the alligator clip/wire almost melted from heat within one second. I tested a lot of the 4-pin relays on the vehicle without any issue (as soon as power and ground are supplied to pins 3 and 4, I heard the relay click and was able to check for continuity between pin 1 and 2). There should be continuity between pin 1 and 2 when power is supplied, and no continuity when no power is supplied. Per Acura's service instructions, the procedure for testing 4-pin relays for the 2005 Acura TL is to connect power to pin 3 and ground to pin 4 and test for continuity.
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